Good-Bye, JoAnn

Dear JoAnn –

Well, you’ve finally done it.  After years of trying to run me out of your “Fabrics and Crafts” store — years while you added more and more junky craft stuff, cheaper and cheaper crummy fabric, and tons and tons of stuff that has nothing whatever to do with either fabrics  or crafts — you’ve succeeded.

Sure, I’ll run in for thread, and a zipper if I’m desperate.  But for a long time after I’d given up on most of what you stock, when I had a bit of spare time, I’d spend it at the pattern table.  I’d take a half an hour or so to look at patterns and plan projects.  It was relaxing and refreshing.  The best kind of “down” time.

No more.  My nearest JoAnn Fabric and Craft store has installed some kind of 24/7 video that looms over the pattern section, screeching out — well, I don’t know what, because if I’m at that pattern table, thinking and planning are what I want to do.  What I don’t want is to be assaulted by noise.

Even the video has to compete with the too-loud, ever-present, radio and with the store announcements that attempt to get attention over everything else.

Yeah, JoAnn, the only thing I’ve done in the past year in your store is have a little quiet adult time.  Sure, the end result was that I’d buy things that I hadn’t planned to buy.  That should look like a big plus to you.  Buying more stuff than you meant to is what people do when they get excited and interested in what they’re doing.  You take more money out of my pocket when I like being in your store; works every time!

But I’m not getting excited about anything at JoAnn anymore.  Because, guess what?  I can look at patterns  at home.  Where it’s quite and pleasant, and no one’s trying to sell me stuff I don’t want in an unending, looping, loud interminable advertisement that I can’t escape.

So, JoAnn, this is it.  Good-bye, baby.  It’s been a long, slow process, but you finally chased me completely out of your store.  Hope that was your plan all along.  If that’s the case, it’s win-win for both of us.

Noile

PS —  Does ANYONE watch those videos?  I’ve never yet seen anyone stop to  look at them. But I have seen a lot of people  shooting dirty looks at them.

Posted in Stores | 2 Comments

How to Carry a Baguette (or Two) in Your Skirt

Mr. Noile was kind enough to take these pictures of Vogue 8499.   This skirt has wonderful, deep side pockets, which can be very useful if you’re bringing bread home from the market:

Well, OK, I don’t really shop like this.  But it’s not a bad way of illustrating just how deep those pocket are, is it?

I added hidden, shallow pockets to this skirt when I made it, so I got the best of both worlds (details in the second link below).

Related:  Vogue 8499 Marcy Tilton Skirt ; Vogue 8499 The Skirt, in Black

Posted in Skirts | 4 Comments

Thread Fragility, and How to Create It

Been cursing the dreadful quality of thread these days? Me, too — at least until I discovered Emma’s new avocation:

She’s chewing happily on the thread running along the back of my machine. She doesn’t eat it, or even chew through it. She just gnaws on it. This went a long way toward explaining the strange weakness I was periodically encountering as I stitched merrily along. Needless to say, I now deploy the sewing machine cover with far greater frequency than I used to.

(Yes, Emma is a GIANT cat — she’s part Maine Coon, and that’s the part that shows.  See those huge paws?  Very clever, those paws.  Very useful for water play in the bathroom, too.  Very useful for string — or thread — play anywhere.)

Posted in Misc | 2 Comments

Pfaff 1229 Repair Update

This post is actually an old one.  A recent comment from a reader reminded me that I had left a bunch of stuff dangling.  (Life does interfere with blogging now and then.)  There are quite a few posts in my drafts folder that never saw the light of day.  I’ll be going back and posting them as I get the chance.  In the meantime, here’s the follow up on my poor, broken Pfaff.   This one’s from July, 2008:

Mr. Noile and I have been traveling, theoretically on vacation. While Mr. Noile has been spending his time doing academic research, I’ve been having various sewing adventures, most, if not all, of which will be revealed in time. The best one, though, came about as the result of an accidental phone call when I was looking for a replacement check spring for my Pfaff 1229.  My machine and I ended up at Smith-Owen in Grand Rapids, Michigan.

so-ext-400The technician I spoke to wasn’t satisfied just to give me what I said I wanted. Instead, he asked me to tell him exactly what was going on with my machine.  I mentioned that our travels would take us to northern Michigan, and he suggested that I drop the machine off — saying that he was pretty sure that he could have it fixed by the time we left the state.

So, on the way to Traverse City from Ann Arbor, we detoured to Grand Rapids and left my well-loved machine with Brian. He called us in northern Michigan days — that’s right DAYS! — later to report that all was well, and that I could pick it up.

I’d left samples of my stitching disasters with him, along with a piece of the most troublesome fabric. He returned a swatch with perfect stitching on it, along with another test piece that demonstrated that all was well with my baby once again. And my self-diagnosis? Not quite right — somehow the throw of the zig zag wasn’t quite traveling the way it should, and that was the source of the problem.

No more — my wonderful 1229 is purring along as if it were brand new. The bill? Just under $80 for a new life and a tune-up. I was so thrilled and relieved that I bought every single accessory foot Smith-Owen sold for my machine. (More on that later.) And two copies of a wonderful, inspiration reference/tutorial (ditto).

Posted in Machines, Stores | Leave a comment

Vintage Nurse’s Cape

Mr. Noile and I found this cape in an antique shop this summer. It fit perfectly, so how could we resist it?  It needs a bit of pressing, but here it is on my dummy:

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Based on its construction, and the other coats available in the shop from the same source, I’m tentatively dating it from the late 1950s to the early 1960s. It might be earlier, and I suppose there’s a slim chance it’s a bit later, but this feels right. It was made by the Hospital Clothing Co. of Philadelphia (though we found it in Northern Michigan). Here’s the label (woven!):

nc-lbl-400The design is absolutely classic. It’s all wool, as the label says, black on the outside, and fully lined in blue wool flannel. The blue lining is a little unusual; nurse’s capes were more commonly lined in red. There’s a beautifully made watch pocket inside the left opening:

nc-wtchpkt-300A nurse, of course, always carried a watch to use when checking a pulse.  A small brass button is missing just under the pocket; it secures an internal tab to help keep the cape closed.  You can see the thread that was left behind when the button was lost.

A large, sturdy hook-and-eye closes the neck at the collar. These bits weren’t applied after the garment was made, but are sewn into the collar seams.  Here’s the “eye” — it’s really a loop — part::

nc-lp-300Isn’t the collar piping beautiful?

All but one of the buttons is original. The buttons are metal and a very bright brass color.  The design has a shield with a crown in the middle, with two horses rampant on either side, and an eagle above::

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Four large buttons close the front, two smaller ones hold the tab at the neck, and there is another tab inside the cape, toward the hem, that is also closed with another set of the smaller buttons. If you look closely at the first picture, you’ll see that someone has replaced one missing button, but it’s a very poor match.  I couldn’t find any in stores that came any closer myself.

Incredibly, I was able to locate the exact button used for my cape. It’s Waterbury 28393, called “Horses & Eagle”. Of course, it’s also completely obsolete.  Waterbury, in business since 1812, apparently keeps all its old button styles on its website (hurray!), but, unfortunately, couldn’t tell me when this button was discontinued.  In any case, I had to find something suitable to replace the ones on my cape.  It wasn’t easy, especially since I really didn’t know what the significance of the original buttons was.

It’s possible that the cape and the button combination was customized for a particular school of nursing, or for a particular hospital, but I wasn’t able to turn up any definitive information that was specific to this cape.  In the end I chose this button:

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It’s Waterbury 29016 (Crest & Shield w/Angel & Eagle).  I chose it because it most closely resembles the original button, and also because the symbolism made sense, too.  In previous wars, nurses were often called “angels of the battlefield”, yet nurses also had to be fierce and tough like eagles, fighting their own battles in the wards and in the operating rooms.

Waterbury buttons are sold either in gross lots, or in specific sets, but not by the individual button.  It’s possible to buy just a single set; in my case, it was a “blazer set” of five large buttons and five smaller.  That gave me one extra of each size, which is always a good idea.  This is an expensive way to buy buttons — or perhaps these are just expensive buttons! — and they arrived in a velvet box, just the way they would have if someone had bought them for a blazer or a fine coat a bunch of decades ago:

nc-vlvt-bx-400Behind each button on the cape (even the one that was replaced) is a tiny, flat, black anchor button, used to secure the heavy shank buttons in place, and to stabilize them.  When I replace the gold buttons, I’ll  carefully sew these right back where they belong, too.

nc-sm-btn-300I was amazed that the closure tabs were all there; the buttons were the only thing that held them in place. The first thing I did, in fact, was to take a few stitches on the right side of each of the tabs, narrowing the buttonholes so that the tabs couldn’t fall off. This in no way changes the look of the tabs; it just keeps that one side from ever coming off the buttons.

I’ll post a picture of the cape with new buttons installed in a couple of days.

Posted in Vintage | 5 Comments

Snap Press!

It’s been almost six months since I last posted, and it will be another month before I’m back posting regularly, but I just had to acknowledge the arrival of a tool I expect to be using for the rest of my sewing life.  It’s  KAM snap press, model DK-98:

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I’ve waffled about getting this for years now, torn because I wasn’t sure I’d use it enough, and because I just didn’t know enough about the people selling them.  Dawn’s experience convinced me that I could order one and expect it to arrive, and I finally had a list of projects-around-the-house that was long enough that I figured it was time.

Mostly, though, I’ve wanted (for decades!) to be able to set decorative cap snaps without smashing the caps,something I’ve never been able to do with pliers.

This thing is a monster:  It’s almost 18 inches tall, and heavy!  See that “bubble” in front, on the base?  That’s where you put a bolt if you’re going to anchor it to a work bench.  There are two other similar holes around the base. The good news is that you don’t have to bolt it down to use it; in fact, although it requires some body language, setting snaps is really easy.

Most people seem to use these in home-based diaper making businesses, and at least one family uses it to make hospital gowns for charity.  (They have a clever foot-pedal rigged up, which you can see here, since they are apparently setting snaps non-stop.) Diapers and hospital gowns both are well-suited to ue the resin (plastic-like) snaps.  They’re softer against the body, and don’t retain heat when taken out of the dryer, the way metal snaps can (if only briefly).  I’ll be using my own snap press mostly for metal snaps; I got the resin ones mostly to experiment with adult apparel.

Here’s what I ordered along with the press:

snp-pts

No the greatest picture, I’m afraid:  The dots are, of course, snaps.  The white ones on the left are resin, and the ones in the upper row are metal, spring-type (more on that later).  The things that look like little tubes or columns are dies.  The snap press is useless without them. You set the dies in place in the press, then put the appropriate snap part into the die, sandwich the fabric or material, and clamp the parts together to set a snap.

The allen wrenches at the lower right come with the press.  They’re used to turn the screws that hold the dies in place.  And that strap at the top?  It’s the first snap I set with my new press:  A size 28 (large!) bronze snap.  I couldn’t believe how easy it was to set!

I got my snap press from The Snap Store.  The service was very good, but ordering was a bit of a frustrating experience.  The web site’s kind of a mess, and unless you already know exactly what you want, it’s a bit tricky determining  how, much less what, to order. I completely gave up on trying to figure out if any of the special combination offers would work for me because I couldn’t figure out whether they were a good deal for my purposes or not.   I’ll have some tips about figuring out what to order  in my next snap press post.

Also, the website doesn’t state what KAM model this press it, which is a bit of a pain if you’re trying to figure out if the Snap Store dies will work with a press you already own, or with snaps you might get elsewhere.  I’m quite sure it’s a KAM DK-98, though.  There is at least one other KAM press out there, which is lighter weight (and a bit smaller), but I don’t know if it takes the same dies or not.

Dies are not necessarily interchangeable between types of presses, and getting any particular vendor to tell you what size shaft your press has (or what size shaft any particular die has) isn’t necessarily easy, so knowing your model is helpful when shopping around.

On the plus side, Wendy S., the Snap Store proprietor, was great about emailing me when one of my items was out of stock, so I was impressed with her responsiveness.  And my order arrived exactly as requested, which is always wonderful!  The Snap Store has by  far the largest selection of snaps and dies compared to any other source I could find, and yes, I’ve already placed an order for another die set.

More about die sets, figuring out what you need, etc. in  a future  post.

Posted in Tools | 2 Comments

Replacement Insoles

My Merrell “Primo Chill Slide” mocs are wonderful to wear when you want the warmth of a boot without the fuss.

mel-ben

They originally came with a wool footlbed that was lofty and warm, just like the wool lining that fills the rest of the shoe. Over time the wool in the insole got crushed and flattened, and the shoes weren’t a slipper-like joy to wear any longer. Though the liners are theoretically replaceable, I couldn’t find them in stores, and trying to get them online seemed like too much of a pain, so I made my own.

Using super-thick felted wool, I made new liners. For the pattern, I traced the original insoles, and cut three pieces for each foot out of the felt. The original ones had a waterproof barrier to keep sweat from permeating the shoe itself, so I also cut a piece of thin, transparent vinyl to use as a similar barrier. The vinyl layer is second from the left in the photo below:

flt-lnr-3001

I used two layers of felt for the top of the liner, and put one beneath the vinyl. The idea was twofold: one, to make sure that the insole wouldn’t slip while I was wearing it, and two, so that the stitching keeping the vinyl in place wouldn’t be stressed too much while in use.

To make sure that I used them right side up (with that cushy double layer next to my foot), I stitched an “L” on the left liner, putting it where it would be least likely to irritate my foot. (Oddly, I couldn’t find matching thread for this dark raspberry material, so I used one of Gütermann’s rainbow threads.) I used a large zigzag just to hold the layers together; I didn’t want to use smaller stitches, because that’s a good way to perforate vinyl, and encouraging it to separate.

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Here are my refurbished mocs (yes, I hate that orange and gray “M”!):

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The wool isn’t lofty like sheepskin slippers (or the original liner), but it is toasty and very comfortable. Incidentally, I found this extra-thick felted wool in a bin at Michael’s; two pieces did the trick. (The choice of colors was really good, too — including a whole range of teals/greens. The wool was was pricey, though, I think about $3.50 a piece — smaller than 8.5 by 11 inches — so the by-the-yard price was ludicrous. Not bad for a pair of new innersoles, though.)

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Vogue 8485 – Linen Handbag

I started this handbag in the first week of February, but then Noilette had appendix surgery and I spent a week in NYC unexpectedly. (All is well; she got through with no complications at all, thank goodness.)

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This particular pattern (I made view C, lower right) is a really simple one: it’s just bag, lining, and (purchased) handles. I must have thought it was a bit too simple, because I ended up changing quite a lot. Here’s a quick run-down on the changes I made:

  1. Added a second internal pocket.
  2. Re-configured the internal pockets.
  3. Interfaced the lining to support the internal pockets.
  4. Created two large pockets between the fashion fabric and the lining.
  5. Changed the closure to two magnetic snaps, instead of tab-and-snap.
  6. Made self-fabric handles.
  7. Added small D-rings to the handle connections for the shoulder strap.

The right-sized handles were impossible to find (not even M&J Trimmings, in the city, had them!), so I decided I’d make my own. My view, C, called for 10 1/2 inch wood handles. No way I was going to use bamboo (can you say “ouch”?), but I couldn’t find any handles that size in any material.

Here are the ingredients I assembled. First, the fabrics:

linbag-fab-300

The outside of the bag is the background fabric: black linen. Boring, yes? But there are a slew of would-be summer dresses in my stash, and black is what they have in common. To compensate, I chose the floral print (leftovers from a bathroom curtain) for the lining, and the red and black calligraphy for the internal pockets.

Next, the notions:

lnbag-not-300

Upper left, small D-rings; then sew-in magnetic snaps; four sets of plastic rings (to attach the handle); and fat upholstery cord for the self-fabric straps. All this stuff is lying on plastic mesh, which I had planned to use support the bottom of the bag.

Of this collection, only a single magnetic snap is on Vogue’s notions list, so I’ll explain the rest as I go.

First step was the lining. It’s cut with a fashion facing along the open edge of the handbag, with the lining fabric over the remaining two-thirds of the inside. The single, small, internal pocket strip in the design just wasn’t going to work for me, so I made two changes: I cut two small pocket strips, instead of one, from the lining material, and changed the lining construction by inserting an invisible zipper in each seam between the fashion facing and the lining fabric. These zippers are the access for large pockets I made between the lining and the outside of the bag.

Then I made my own version of the small strip pockets, using a thin interfacing to give them some substance. (I hate trying to pull stuff out of wilting pockets.) After fitting them to the items I’d be using them for, I stitched the strips to the lining, and then stitched vertically to form the individual pockets:

linbag-inpkt-300

This doesn’t look at all symmetrical, but it really is! (I was standing on a footstool and contorted to keep the overhead light from making a shadow. (Note to self: bad photo technique.) This was really it, as far as assembling the lining more or less according to Vogue’s plan. Very straightforward.

But there was all that potential space between the lining and the outside of the bag and I just couldn’t let it go to waste. So, to made pockets along each broad side of the bag, I cut interlining pieces from some ultra-lightweight microfiber, and basted it in place behind the assembled lining pieces. Then I turned and tacked the long raw edges to the underside of the invisible zippers. This forms one side of the huge internal pockets I added to the bag. I could have left this step out, but I’d have known it every time I reached inside the bag, and it would have bothered me, so I took the extra steps.

Here’s how one of the internal side pockets looks, opened so you can see the interlining:

lin-bg-opn-300

After the lining was in place, I invisibly hand-stitched all around the center seams from the handles, down the sides and across the bottom of the bag. This made a barrier to keep something in one of the huge side pockets from shifting across to the other one. I didn’t end up using the mesh to support the bottom; not only was my interfacing enough to retain some shaping, but this step, so necessary to making my added pockets work, would have been very difficult if I’d had to stitch through the mesh, too.

Here’s what the lining looks like, fully assembled and inside the bag, with the pockets filled:

lin-opn-3001

Each of the pockets I added to the sides of the bag is large enough to hold my Asus eeePC, which is the white thing peering out of the pocket. Actually, it’s large enough to hold the notebook and its accessories, too. I could carry two!

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See the “noile dot net” label? Those were a present from Mr. Noile:

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The two little stitched squares to the right and left of the label are where I put the magnetic closures for the bag. I didn’t want to see them, and I discovered that they worked perfectly well if stitched into the bag, instead of onto it. I hated the tab Vogue offered for the closure, and didn’t much like the idea of having just a single tab closing such a wide bag, either.

The Vogue bag has purchased handles, in a size I couldn’t find anywhere, so I made my own using upholstery cording and self-fabric. I sewed a tube, turned it, and then fed the cord through using a small, plastic-headed diaper pin.

I used the pattern piece for the handle loops that came with the pattern, but used them to attach plastic rings to the bag, instead of attaching the handles directly. There are two rings through each loop; I’ve never used anything like this for a strap before, and am a little skeptical about how they’ll take the inevitable abuse, so I doubled them up for strength.

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Hidden inside, I put the small D-rings. Originally, I thought I’d make the shoulder strap that Vogue included in this view, but changed my mind, since the straps are long enough so that I don’t think I’d ever need an additional one. I added the D-rings anyway, though, because, well, I just think there’s no such thing as too many places to clip stuff inside a bag!

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The D-rings don’t show at all from the outside, of course, but now I’ll always be able to find my keys. Many sets of keys.

The straps then just got sewn to the plastic rings. Not fancy, but effective. Finally, here’s how the bag looks, all together:

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Seriously boring, right? But that’s OK — the lining’s vibrant, and the somber black should be a great counterpoint to my wild and crazy summer dress fabrics (or maybe just a great relief!). I love the size of this bag — big, but not overwhelming — and the shape has a certain style that I like quite a bit now that it’s made up. Not to mention that my modifications have made it really practical for a whole day of either play or work. Now, on to the dresses!

lin-combo-2

On a whim, I signed up (pre-appendix!) for Pattern Review’s Handbag Contest. Today’s the last day, and this is almost the last minute, so I’ll be making a mad dash to get this posted there. Last time I looked, there were some wonderful handbags entered — go take a look. You’ll be inspired!

Posted in Bags | Leave a comment

Pattern Sale!

So I bopped down to JoAnn’s the other day and picked up a few Vogue patterns. Five, to be precise — that’s at least two more than I’ve ever picked up at once before. I’m dreamin’, big time!

The one I wanted most was Marcy Tilton’s new pants pattern, Vogue 8561:

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I love the kooky shape of the legs, but I have a couple of concerns. First, it’s never a good sign when a pattern company can’t get the pants to look as if they fit the model. In both Vogue photos (this one, and the one in the pattern catalog on a human model), if you look closely, it’s clear that the crotch doesn’t quite work. So I’m expecting some fit issues here. Other Tilton patterns I’ve used have been huge, so it will be interesting to work with one that looks much trimmer. I think I may make a couple of modifications, too, but later for those . . .

In the wake of my disappointment with the neck finish on Vogue 8536, this top looks pretty good to me, so I picked it up, too:

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It’s a Sandra Betzina, Vogue 8151.

So much for the practical stuff. The next two patterns are the stuff of fantasy. First, the much-noted Donna Karan, Vogue 1088:

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Could I carry this off? Well, probably not — but a girl can dream, can’t she? I’m using it for exercise inspiration. Arms in this dress had better be buff!

And then there’s this one, Vogue 1094:

osv1094-3001

In Vogue’s new pattern book, it’s made up in black and white gingham. Yeah, I fell, and I fell hard. This means that not only the arms and shoulders need to be buff, but the waist needs to be very, very trim. No belt to help fake it. I have my work cut out for me — or, alternatively, I’ve got a really good fantasy going here!

The fifth one was Vogue 8485, specifically view C (with the bamboo handles):

vbg8485-300

I want to wear dresses (well, maybe not the two above, but dresses in general) this summer. I’m going to need a generic bag that is industrial-sized, but will still look good with a variety of frocks. So I’m planning to make this one in black linen. I’ll almost certainly lose the bamboo handles (ouch!), so I need to do some thinking about what would work instead. This view has a shoulder strap, too. It’s practical, but not obvious. I like that.

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Vogue 8536 – It’s a Wadder!

Oh, dear. Knits and I are just not getting along. Today’s failure is this top from Vogue Basic Design:

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I made view D (the vee-neck), with the 3/4ths sleeve length from view B. In theory, this shirt is almost exactly what I’d choose for everyday wear. But alas, it was not to be. It’s mostly my fault, too, though, although I really, really do not like the neck band.

wdrnk-2001

It’s too narrow, and makes me think of neck trim on cheap clothing. (And it doesn’t help that I muffed my stitching slightly in front, either!)

The sides end in slits, which I thought I’d like, but seem sort of bleah to me now that I’ve made the top. If I try this again, I’ll just sew the seams all the way to the hem.

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Although the shoulders seemed to be fine on my dummy, they’re not right on me at all. (I know I’m overdue for replacing my dummy; those duct tape shells don’t last forever, and mine is definitely showing signs of disfigurement, not to mention that I’m a bit re-configured myself!) I need to take the shoulders in by a full half inch on each side to get the fit I want.

On the plus side, the body is cut nicely, and I love the extra ease at the side bust, which don’t show, but acknowledge that a little more accommodation is needed in that area. I think may be what Betzina calls “today’s fit”. I’m guessing that “today” means “you don’t have the bust you did when you were 20!”)

Which brings us to my nemesis: hemming knits. After considerable experimentation, including using iron-ons for support, varying stitch lengths, fiddling with basting methods, etc., I tried two other methods for this top. They worked great on my sample pieces; on my top, not so much.

For the sleeve hems, I used twill tape under the cut edge of the fabric, basting it in place to keep the knit from stretching. (How desperate can you get??) Then I used a 6.0 double needle for the stitching. That worked pretty well, but not perfectly. I ended up with a slight tunneling effect that I wasn’t able to get rid of while still keeping enough tension in the thread.

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It looks a little like trapunto, and I kind of like it. After experimenting some more, I did the hem without the twill tape, but with careful basting. All looked well under the machine foot, but I noticed that I was getting a few skipped stitches. My new needle wasn’t the cause, so, on a whim, I slowed the speed of my machine down to nothing, and that solved that problem.

Stretched out on my dummy, the hem doesn’t look awful (if you don’t mind that trapunto effect), but lying flat, the hem bubbles. It’s just not right. Mr. Noile suggested that I get a very long strip of knit remnant and then keep trying until I solve this vexing problem; I’m going to do it. Next try: bias iron interfacing with single rows of topstitching. What have I got to lose?

Good thing this was a muslin. Grrrr.

Posted in Tops | 3 Comments