Stretch Denim Joggers (Sort Of)

Well, maybe less “jogger” than just “sloppy comfort wear”. Clothing for our [Covid] times! Like Vogue 8499, these, Vogue 8712, are wide-legged pants, but these taper in more at the ankle.

I’ve made them before (more than once, actually) and decided to give them a try in this fabric because apparently I’m always searching for some way to wear jeans without actually doing so.  The promise denim makes of indestructibility is an ever-lasting siren song, but I don’t like the weight or the restriction of real denim; on the other hand, I live with a herd of toddlers cats, so the appeal of a Kevlar-type fabric is obvious.

This pair is an attempt to meet my wishes halfway. The basic fabric is a light dark denim, but there’s enough stretch in it so that moving around in it doesn’t feel like work.  The quality is really high; I’m pretty sure I bought it a few years ago at FabricMart, from the basement at the brick-and-mortar store. Basement sales are a little different, and usually require buying the bolt (or maybe a 10 yard minimum?), which I happily did in this case.

The side seams run from waist to hem, but there are seams down the center back of each leg. I originally thought the back seaming would bother me, but I’ve actually never noticed it in wearing these pants. The lower front shaping is pieced, giving the legs the lantern shape. Both of these features add very little time to working up the garment, and do make the pants endearingly quirky.

The hem is faced, so don’t go by the illustration on the envelope to gauge where it will hit on you. On envelopes for both of these patterns the photos are extremely misleading — cropped on a 5’11” model can leave some of us drowning in fabric. Or, on the other hand, can make for full-length trews on someone my size, which worked out well for me. (I do love the facing, though, and the curved hem.)

Because I can’t leave well-enough alone (and because I dream of travel again, one day) I made a few internal changes.  I left the inside edges of the back waist open, and added tabs and buttons so that the elastic can be easily replaced, or, if I ever get around to adding more buttons, the waist can be snugged (or loosened) if desired.

And I added hidden zip pockets inside. Sadly, I didn’t take any pictures when I was making them, but the process is pretty simple. I inserted zippers in the part of the pockets that lie next to my body, then added another layer of pocket lining before closing the pockets up. This is almost impossible to photograph at this point, but here’s one of the zippers in the self-fabric.

Hmm. That image looks weirdly equine, doesn’t it?
It really isn’t possible to pull the pocket all the way out
now that the garment’s finished.

There’s a loop on the zipper tab, which makes it much easier to use. If I’m not wearing a coat, or want to carry the smallest bag possible, these hidden pockets make it easy to carry a transit pass, or a spare bill or card, etc. without risk of loss.

I always use self/main fabric for the pocket section next to my body since that’s what will show when the pockets are in use. But I like to have a bit of fun with the parts that aren’t likely to show. These pocket linings are made from batik scraps.

If you’re doing a double pocket like mine, and your fabric has a wrong side, make sure the right side faces the right side of the zipper, so that you see the right side when you open the pocket. Much nicer!

The pattern itself is straightforward. Be warned, though, that sizing may be wonky, per the usual for the now-scorned Big Four.  If I remember correctly, whatever worked, or didn’t, in terms of sizing with 8499 had nothing to do with any issues with this pattern — in spite of the fact that they are from the same era and theoretically the same source.

Edited to swap a photo out for clarity, and correct a typo.